Maine wrap up

We passed through the cell phone and internet desert of central Maine and are now anchored between Cape Elizabeth and Richmond Island staged to make the daylight run to Gloucester, Mass, tomorrow morning at 0500.  The last two weeks have been chock full of friends, visits, and lobster (7 out of the last 8 days).  Jody, Sudip, and Sophie joined us to explore around Bar Harbor.

I loved the name of this boat in Bar Harbor.

Bar Harbor

Bar Harbor

Richard and Ida Rae joined us for a loop from Bar Harbor to Frenchboro to Swan’s Island, to the Wooden Boat School and finally to Somes Sound.

On Swan’s Island, we stopped in Burnt Coat Harbor.  It turns out that Swan’s Island was originally called Burnt Cote island meaning “brown side” by the French.  Our 1958 version of the Duncan cruising guide notes that at 8 a.m. on August 23, 1954, the air was 60 degrees and the water 54 degrees.  Brrrr.  We had it only slightly warmer.

Burnt Coat Harbor, Swan's Island

Burnt Coat Harbor, Swan’s Island

This was a fun general store nearby the Wooden Boat School with some great, locally made ice cream.  Unfortunately, it looks like it is for sale.

Brooklin General Store, Brooklin, ME.

Brooklin General Store, Brooklin, ME.

Since then, we worked westward stopping at Mackerel Cove on Swan’s Island, at Hell’s Half Acre in the Merchant Islands, at Port Clyde, and for lunch at Harpwell.

At Mackerel cove, there is a small, but fascinating lobster and fishing museum.  We had a ball looking at the old gear and huge lobsters.

Swan's Island Lobster museum

Swan’s Island Lobster museum

Hannes and I bought 5 lobsters from a boat working pots around Hurrah.  They weren’t this big, fortunately.    Mackerel cove was a great anchorage with a large area with only a few pots and little boat wake.  We could have stayed a week and been happy as a lobster.  Well, happier than the lobsters we ate.

The Merchants are a cluster of islands west of Swan’s Island.  We enjoyed a quiet and peaceful night off Hell’s Half Acre and Devil’s Island.  Go figure.

Bold Island / Hell's Half Acre

Bold Island / Hell’s Half Acre

Port Clyde, while it could be a nice anchorage, is full of pots leaving no practical room for anchoring.  Even many of the $35 a night moorings had pots 10-20′ feet away.  Yuk.  At least the lobsters were cheap…

Today, we left Port Clyde at 0500, passed by Eastern Egg Rock to see the atlantic puffins and headed for Orr’s Island where we met up with the crew on the HR35 Midwatch.

Atlantic Puffins off Eastern Egg Rock

Atlantic Puffins off Eastern Egg Rock

We last saw the Midwatch crew 2,000 miles south of here in Les Saintes and it was fun to catch up again.   On the way to eat lobster and fish, we walked over the Cribstone Bridge (aka the Bailey Island bridge) built in the 1920s.  To me, it looked like a jenga block project with the huge granite blocks stacked on top of each other with alternating gaps that allow the tidal currents to pass through.  The only method of attachment is the friction between the blocks themselves.

Bailey's Island Bridge, the Cribstone bridge.  Orr's and Bailey's Island.

Bailey’s Island Bridge, the Cribstone bridge. Orr’s and Bailey’s Island.

Here’s the view of our last night in Maine:

Cape Elizabeth anchorage at sunset

Cape Elizabeth anchorage at sunset

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4 Responses to Maine wrap up

  1. ellen says:

    I’ve kayaked to Hell’s Half Acre. Devil’s had some crazy story- I wish I could remember. So fun to see you in our stomping grounds. We’ll do our best to make lots of purchases in Brooklin, keep the store coffers flowing for at least a while longer. Bon voyage!

  2. heronracing says:

    We hope you have a great trip next week. We’re passing through Cape Cod Bay and thinking of y’all.

  3. Dick Aubochon says:

    We love that little store in Brooklin, never miss a chance to stop in!
    I can’t say how many times we have done what it looks like (from your spot) you have done. By that I mean heading for Marblehead and ended going to Ptown or right to the canal, especially with a moon like last night.
    We have spent a couple of seasons in RI but are returning home to Maine in two weeks.

  4. heronracing says:

    The moon was absolutely amazing. The chance to make more easy miles south was too good to pass up especially given the low pressure coming off the coast Tuesday night. We’re headed for Port Washington now.

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